Sunday 8 June 2014

Opulence, Maison de la Photographie, and meeting friends from afar

Saturday June 7 was another warm, sunny day.  Alain went for a run in the morning.  We then headed back to the Medina.  We walked down our boulevard where there are many large hotels, all in ochre colour, with lots of surrounding green.

One of many hotels on our street
Camels at one corner (with cars racing by beside them)
Walls of Medina

We stopped at La Mamounia, just inside the wall.  La Mamounia has been Morocco's most prestigious hotel since 1923.  Apparently, it was a favourite of Winston Churchill.  It has achieved legendary status for its opulence, celebrity guest list and high price tag.  We wandered around, checking out the bar, terrace and boutiques.  It was beautifully furnished and all the staff were wearing beautiful traditional outfits.  It was almost like visiting a museum.  It was very quiet at about 1::00 p.m. when we wandered in.

                                                               View of La Mamounia
The doors and greeters
View of part of lobby 
Courtyard with adjacent boutiques
Adjacent to the courtyard
Garden view
The bar

We then walked through some beautiful gardens to the Koutoubia Mosque which towers over the Medina.  There are beautiful roses and other flowers in the gardens.

Roses in gardens in front of Koutoubia Mosque
                                                                    The Koutoubia Mosque
We walked through the main square, and wandered through the souks en route to our destination,  the Maison del la Photographie.

Passing a man selling melons in a small square
Amazingly, we ran into our local guide, Abdul, who was taking a tourist on a tour.  We greeted each other and he pointed us in the general direction of the Maison.  We only got lost once.  Unfortunately, once you ask someone for directions in the Medina, they immediately start taking you where you are going and expect some payment in return.   We finally got to our destination, which is located in an old fondouk just outside the souk area.  Fondouks were original storehouses, workshops and inns frequented by merchants and artisans on their journeys across the Sahara.  The Maison de la Photographie opened in 2009 in a restored fondouk.

Entrance to Photography House
The Photography House has a collection of 1000s of pictures (mostly originals) which date from 1870-1950, that are exhibited on a rotating basis.  The first room holds pictures from Tangier, the first place foreigners were allowed to visit.  The works are well mounted and displayed.  We really enjoyed the work of Nicolas Muller (1913-2000), who was born in Hungary, and lived in Tangier from 1939-47.



Muller- 1944
The Maison received his photos after a 2009 visit from his daughter, who is also a photographer.  Her father had been mentioned in the Maison's material as an important photographer from the 1940s.  The daughter generously donated a series of his photos which now grace the walls of the Maison.  A wonderful story of a chance meeting.

We had lunch on the Maison's rooftop with a great view of the city.  We stayed for a few hours enjoying the view and shelter from the sun.

Alain in front of eggplant appetizer
Eggplant appetizer- excellent
Chicken tangine (we had already started to eat, when I remembered to take this pic)
View from the roof
As we climbed down the narrow iron spiral stairway, I took this photo of where we had just eaten.  Very peaceful and relaxing.

View of rooftop cafe

We walked back through the fondouk area--- beautiful ochre coloured walls and thick doors.  Much quieter than the souks and other areas of the Medina.
Quiet alley
Old Fondouk
Old-style transport
We then met old friends, Charles and Elisabeth from Victoria in front of the Koutoubia Minaret and went for tea at a cafe with a rooftop terrace overlooking Djemaa el Fna (the main square).  In the early evening, the square really comes alive with quickly put up food booths and lots of folks.  We got some pics from the roof.

Charles and Elisabeth- Victoria meets Toronto in Marrakech!
View from the roof top 
Charles, Elisabeth and Alain
 We then took a taxi to dinner at Al Fassia in the Gueliz area.  The restaurant had been recommended by the chef who owns the cooking school where Alain and I are going today.  It was excellent--a rare place run by women, where one can order a la carte.  We all shared Moroccan small plates of delicious salads as appetizers and then had lamb tangines.
Lamb with caramelized tomatoes
View of restaurants- excellent service, all by women
Bottle of excellent Moroccan wine (like a shiraz)
Charles, Elisabeth, moi et Alain
It was a great meal in a lovely restaurant with friends from afar.  Today we are going to a cooking class.  Another adventure.


















1 comment:

  1. following your adventures from afar. Marco Polo would be jealous.

    ReplyDelete